Permits are the part of a Sikkim trip that most often goes wrong, and almost always for the same reason: a missing photocopy, a photo ID that is not accepted, or a pass that is closed on the day you planned it. Here is how it works, from the people who apply for these permits every week.
Do Indian nationals need a permit to enter Sikkim?
No. Indian citizens can enter Sikkim and visit Gangtok, Pelling, Namchi, Ravangla and most of the state without any permit. Permits are needed only for the protected and restricted areas listed below.
Which areas need a permit?
- North Sikkim: Lachung, the Yumthang valley, Zero Point, Lachen, Thangu and Gurudongmar Lake.
- East Sikkim: Tsomgo (Changu) Lake, Baba Mandir and Nathu La.
- The Old Silk Route: Zuluk, Thambi, Nathang and Kupup.
- Treks in West Sikkim beyond Yuksom, into the Kanchenjunga National Park.
How the permit is issued
For North Sikkim, Tsomgo, Nathu La and the Zuluk circuit, the permit is applied for through a registered tour operator, and the vehicle that takes you must itself be permitted for the route. That is one practical reason to book these areas with a Sikkim-registered operator: we hold the registration (Sikkim Tourism Reg. No. 77/DoT&CAv/S/20/TA) and handle the application for you.
Nathu La permits take a day or two to process, so the Nathu La day is usually the second day of a Gangtok stay or later. North Sikkim permits are usually processed in Gangtok the day before you travel north.
Documents to carry
- An original government photo ID: Aadhaar card, voter ID, passport or driving licence. PAN cards are generally not accepted.
- Two to four recent passport-size photographs per person.
- For children: a birth certificate or school ID, and photographs.
- Photocopies of the ID, in case the checkpost asks for one.
Nathu La
Nathu La, on the India–China border at about 14,100 ft, is open to Indian nationals only. It is usually closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, and the army can close it at short notice for weather or other reasons. When that happens the permit fee is the main loss, and we plan alternative sightseeing for the day.
Gurudongmar Lake and Zero Point
Gurudongmar Lake, at about 17,800 ft, is open to Indian nationals only. Zero Point above Yumthang is usually an extra excursion on the day, depending on snow and the road. Neither can be promised in advance: the road decides.
The Zuluk and Silk Route circuit
The Zuluk circuit is a restricted area currently open to Indian nationals only. The permit is checked at Rongli and needs your ID and photographs in advance, so this is a trip to book ahead rather than on arrival.
Foreign nationals
Foreign nationals need an Inner Line Permit (ILP) to enter Sikkim at all. It can be obtained online, at the Rangpo and Melli checkposts, at Bagdogra airport, or from Sikkim tourism offices in Siliguri, Kolkata and Delhi, against a passport, visa and photographs.
With the ILP, foreign travellers can visit Gangtok, Pelling, South Sikkim and, with an additional protected-area permit arranged through a registered operator and usually in a group of two or more, Tsomgo Lake and Lachung–Yumthang. Nathu La, Gurudongmar and the Zuluk circuit are currently closed to foreign nationals.
Bhutan and Nepal
Neither needs a visa for Indian nationals. Bhutan needs an entry permit, issued at Phuentsholing or Paro airport against a passport or voter ID (not Aadhaar); Nepal needs only a passport or voter ID. See our guides to each.
